Why is that? Too light?

BTW I change the motor oil to synthetic. I used Mobil 1 High Mileage. I order the K&N filter, fan clutch, pvc valve, bought a new brake master cylinger (mine is leaking).

The idea behind a flex fan is that the fan blades keep a tight curve at low RPM to increase the amount of air pulled by the blades, but at higher RPM centrifugal force causes the flexible fan blades to flatten out, thus pulling less air and reducing drag. The problem is that sometimes the plastic fan blades get stress fractures from flexing or get other damage from road debris kicked up or tools dropped or the blades just fail. The blades then fly apart at whatever RPM they are turning, potentially causing damage or injury to the vehicle or nearby people.

If you are looking for an easy way to reduce drag caused by a fixed blade fan, the best bet is to install a factory clutch fan. If you want the latest whiz-bang product then you go for the electric fan, but, to do it right, it is a somewhat involved installation. Mount the fan, mount the temp sensor, run the wiring, run a failsafe switch for if or when the relay or temp sensor fails, make sure the alternator has enough output at idle to power the fan, etc... Much easier to just bolt on a clutch fan.

Synthetic oil is a good upgrade, the PCV is a regular maintenance part that needs replacing, brakes are good, and I don't think much of K&N on a street vehicle. A Napa Gold filter flows just about the same and the difference isn't enough to notice on the street.

One caviet Reed,my Delray flex-fan is stainless steel not plastic and the one in picture appears to be a steel fan.You're right about clutch-fans/elec-fans etc but I've run bunches of flex fans over the years both steel and figerglass and never had one come apart.I think some of the horror stories involving flex fans came from the early plastic ones doing 6000rpm shifts,new ones are a whole different species.:)

I agree. After doing some reading it seems to be so much easier to use a bolt on that the electric. Less headaches.

Yes it is a steel fan.

Hey guys...

Any recommendation on radiators? I was thinking in a stock one but im open to suggestions.

Synthetic doesn't benefit older engines, it's expensive, and if you add it to a high mileage engine, you'll have leaks, once it cleans out the buildup in the seals, it starts coming out as the seals are worn from the buildup, it was helping seal in the oil. I know many who've suffered from this, many hadn't seen a drop from their engines before, once the flood gates open the only fix is to replace the seals.
Get a 4 core radiator, a shop can get you one, stay away from 2 rows and don't get fooled by the ebay sellers with the newer upgrade all aluminum radiators. The fan shroud attached to the radiator increase the air drawn by the fan, if it's missing, get one ASAP, make it from tubing if you have to, it directs the air through the radiator.

SixShot and Maples are both right. I just have a personal aversion to flex fans, especially when I can usually score a good clutch fan at the junkyard for $5. Maybe I am just way off-base, but I'll stick with my clutch fans for now. Stock radiator is fine, but if you just gotta get a new one might as well go with the heavy duty cooling package/towing package radiator. And a fan shroud is a definite must.

I have only ever run synthetic on a motor that has been rebuilt with all new gaskets, so I can't speak to it causing leaks. I have heard stories though. However, for most applications you should run 5W-30 oil, or lighter. If your pressure is too low, try switching to 10W-30.

The fan shroud is a must. Your photos look like your fan is direct driven by the water pump. That thing must be pretty loud. If you put a clutch on it, and do not use a shroud, you might notice it running a little warmer come summertime. The shroud itself will block some noise, but more importantly dramatically increase the airflow through the radiator at slow/no speed.
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I started using synthetic with about 18k miles on my rebuilt engine. I just tried it at first because Mobil 1 was on special at wally world, And I knew the I needed an extended drain oil for that certain oil change interval. My lifters always had ticked on startup. Never again since I put in the synthetic. I now use it every time. For me not to hear that ticking on start up is worth the extra 10$ for 5 quarts.

Todays non synthetic oils have become so good, the line has really narrowed between the 2. I believe the biggest benefits with synthetics are in super cold weather, and on cars that run extremely high oil temps, like turbos, or race engines.
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I have a new all aluminum 1 row radiator. The one row is 1 1/4 inches wide, The single tube is 1 1/4 inches wide.

This replaced my copper/brass 2 row radiator, which was also 1 1/4 wide, but it had two rows, 5/8 inch wide each. Copper transfers heat better than aluminum, but the copper fins are soldered to the brass tubes with lead. Lead does not transfer heat as well as either copper/ brass or aluminum. The aluminum is stronger, so the tubes can be wider, and have more surface area between the tubes and the fins to transfer heat. There is a process called cuprobrazing which the copper brass radiator makers employed to put a dent in the ever growing aluminum radiator share. Cuprobrazing removes the Lead, increases the heat transfer rate, but makes the copper brass as difficult to repair as aluminum, and further increases the price of copper brass over aluminum.

Arguments abound which will cool better. I never ran hot with the copper brass, and I do not run hot now with All Aluminum, but that is hardly scientific. I don't hear my clutch Fan spinning any faster, again hardly scientific. I changed too many things along with the radiator for any comparison to really be valid.

I went with aluminum because I went through 3 copper brass ones in 9 years in my Ocean Air environment. The fins on all of them would disintegrate if sneezed upon after 3.5 years. My Aluminum tranny cooler is showing little sign of corrosion/oxidation after 9 years. That was the deciding factor for me.
I hope this aluminum radiator does as well.
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While 5w 30 oil is thinner than 10w 30 when the oil is cold, when at full temperature, when new, both have viscosities nearly identical.

Source: Motor oil 101


I would not switch to synthetic If I were you. If you are looking for more Anti wear additives for your oil, look for an Oil high in ZDDP. Lots of diesel engine oils have more of this, but they also have more detergents which might possibly clean the crud off your seals and start them leaking.

Supposedly this ingredient has really been reduced in oils, because it is bad for Catalyic Converters, but it is very important for flat tappett engines.

The Link Above has a lot of interesting Information. On it's public forums, some people really claim a product called LubroMoly really quietened their engine down, or Lubegard's oil additive gave them another 3 mpg highway. But some others also swear that Zmax 'penetrates' metal despite it being proven it is nothing more than tinted mineral oil.

A lot of people on that forum also swear by Marvel Mystery oil, and put some in each and every Gas tank. Some others say that the synthetic making the engine leak is pure myth.

Good information and myths and old wives tales abound these days. Hard for one to sort it all out.

I don't have the answers. I just use Seafoam through the intake once in a while to help blow out the carbon, Synthetic oil to keep my lifters from ticking on startup, and the biggest damn oil filter with the proper pressure relief valve PSI rating and Anti drainback valve I can find. Oh yeah, I also put magnets all over my oil filter's case, and see ferrous material where the magnets were, in every filter I open up, and I open each one.

I noticed my mid is missing the shroud, dad had an F-150 with a 360 when I was a teen, previous owner installed a small radiator, didn't span the opening in the support so it had a brace rigged in front to hold it, run on the hot side. I had wrecked a car, we took the shroud from it, butchered it to fit, ugly as sin, but to our surprise, it ran so much cooler.
I have an electric fan from a Mark VII, I plan to put it in my mid, but if I wasn't I'd need to get a shroud for it.
I've thought about simply taking some thin steel and bending it around a rim of the proper size, then riveting it together. Then you just meed a flat piece the width and height of the radiator, cut out a hole for the cone, carefully centered and marked from your fan placement. You bend some tabs to hold them together, welding would make it far neater than rivets, installation may require it to go in as pieces so you need to account for that.

I had a flex-fan explode on one of my vehicles. It was a real 'Flex-fan' steal core with stainless blades. Needless to say the truck still ran warm with it and it cost me a new radiator when it let go. Luckily I have my own trailer so towing wasn't an issue. When it let go I was cruising down the highway at 60 MPH (approx 2500 RPM) I'm glad it didn't go through the hood or hurt anyone.

I'll never use one again.