I stained the workbench and a few other pieces in my van,a week ago, and it STINKS how long does it take to remedy that ?
I used Minwax wood stain.

Need to seal it...what you put is just stain...seal it then it will stink again....if its enclosed a month or so....hot day and well ventilated an day or so...needs to cure..


did these a few weeks ago

The use of a quality sanding sealer( local contractor store like MAB or SW ) will both lift the grain making your finished work look better but will also "cure" you wood faster. Two coats are recommended with light sand (400grt) and tack rag in between..both coats the same day..4/6 hours apart then let sit for at least 72. Use a waterborne Urethane which has very little smell for finish coat. 2 to 3 coats with 36 hr dry time and sanding in between each. Marine satin is my favorite.

good luck

Yup, what they said! If you don't want a gloss finish, just watch the type you use.

I've never had the smell last more than 3 days, I built/remodeled homes, decks, gazebo's, etc for a few years before I got injured. Curing time is as important, just as much as the products you use, be aware that certain sealers will not cure if used on non compatible stains, and there is no stain that seals, I don't care what the can says.

Minwax.

This stuff must be wiped off before it completely dries, but then you might lose some color you were trying to keep. You can push the color deeper in some end grain, and just as easily pull it out of the flatter grained areas
"Oh! that's What she said!"
Sorry. Saturday night and all that.


Wiping it off and blending it can to keep an even color can be a frustrating task, depending on the wood, and how it was prepped before you slapped a stain soaked rag on it and spread it around.

I have yet to use a wood conditioner, not out of malice, or doubt, just inexperience in the using the product, perhaps inpatience too.

It will stink for weeks if you did not wipe it down.

If you did not wipe it down within a few hours, depending on temp and humidity it can be an overwhelming PITA. to wipe down later.

I have wiped on another layer of stain on top of the gummy stuff, then that is easy to wipe off, and blend

I have also used a darker stain than intended let it sit overnight, then used mineral spirits on a rag to wipe it off and blend the color evenly, and polyurethaned that 2 hours later with excellent results.

Minwax might be widespread and popular, but on the fine woodworking sites I used to frequent, it was laughed at,reviled even.

^^I forgot that.^^ They all must be wiped with a clean rag after allowed to soak a few minutes.

I hope I'm not hijacking this thread before it was finished, but had a woodworking question of my own.

In 2005, I pulled the plastic grille on my van, replacing it with an early alumunum unit. Since my van had "D O D G E" lettering on the hood, I took the "DODGE" insert out of the early grille and replaced it with "JUNKYARD JITTERS" lettering.



I cut the letters from a piece of cabinet grade birch plywood (dont ask me why I didn't use some of the extra red oak flooring I also had). After staining, I sealed them with 5 coats of water-based urethane (2 coats on same day, 1 day drying time, 2 coats, same day, etc.)

Now the letters are faded, falling apart (see pic below) and ready to be replaced.
This time, I took the lazy way out and bought some pre-cut solid wood letters (which hopefully will last longer).
Have any tips on what to seal them with?
Do I Just need to re-seal every other year?
Is 5 coats (applied w/brush) too many?

If it were mine i would use chrome or brass letters. Thats just me tho. To each his own.

Your van is nice though.

Mine's a low-buck beast. The wood letters (2" high x 3/4" thick) were only a buck apiece.

Brass or chrome would be much more (a total of 15 letters too)