Was the cross hatching still visible on the cylinder bores?

I don't know that I would have been comfortable reusing that block unless it was re machined. Whatever it was that was bouncing around in the cylinders and pitted the piston heads also had to do a number on the cylinder walls. Wouldn't think the rings would seal very well.

Here is what a roller cam'd LA 318 looks like.


The re machined heads, they were magnafluxed to check for cracks?

Here is a magnafluxed crack in the head when I had my engine rebuilt:

Good Q Grogan14,

I asked the shop and they said they took only very minimal amount, not shaved but just enough to clean surface. I aked if I would need to machine intake mating surface and was told it would match fine. Vacuum is good - like 20 - but I guess that wouldn't prove the seal was great beyond the vac measure itself. I forget the Edel torque spec but that's what I used. As I recall it is quite a bit less than Dodge FSM. I have no steam from pass side though with same torque on bolts.

Quote:

"Was the cross hatching still visible on the cylinder bores?

I don't know that I would have been comfortable reusing that block unless it was re machined. Whatever it was that was bouncing around in the cylinders and pitted the piston heads also had to do a number on the cylinder walls. Wouldn't think the rings would seal very well."

'Course you are right about comfort level. As to cross hatching pretty sure that was gone 25 years ago. I do have good compression though, and can only increase it by squirting 30 wt a bit. Not a lot. I admit it is an experiment. Did not have ability to pull the block.

I theorize these Mopars are extremely forgiving. Runs cool, not a high compression, etc. Maybe it will blow up - I ain't sure.

I think the cyl walls are much harder material than the top of these pistons. The valve relief on some are much deeper than the dings I smoothed out. Even the installation direction notches have sharper edges too.

I reckon that's due to it being aluminum.


Did you figure out what that was, bouncing around in that cylinder?

I'll be interested to see if there is much oil consumption if you can get it to stop steaming.

Is there any coolant in the oil?

Edelbrock says to torque their intake manifolds to 25 ft pounds. Get the installation instructions HERE.

If it is getting good vacuum and nothing is leaking from the exhaust studs, you may want to just run it for a few days and watch your coolant level. About 10 years ago I had the 351 that is now in my 89 Ford rebuilt by a very reputable shop in town. The engine builder said that the motor would leak a little at first until it was broken in. Sure enough, I had a little bit of coolant seeping past the intake and head gaskets. However, it settled down after a few days of driving.

There is also the chance that what you are seeing is just condensation. Try topping off the radiator and taking the van for a good long drive. If the van doesn't overheat and you don;t have white smoke when you get done, then you are fine.

I agree with Reed. Popping off the exhaust manifold to check for signs in that area wasn't a big deal, though I never thought the studs very likely to be your problem, but I can't see going any further without first running it long enough to absolutely rule out condensation in the exhaust, and to see if things seat.

Thanks, lemme think on that. I will try to post some pics or link a vid tomorrow.

Nope, no coolant in the oil, tho it has not been run very long yet. Engine has good compression, too. I saw your interesting thread in "Bob Is The Oil Guy" about your rebuild some time ago.

It's been quite a few years since I messed with a small block Mopar, but I swear the head gaskets were a mirror image front to back. The picture you show of the gasket on the block deck has the top water jacket hole blocked by the head gasket and the rear is open. IIRC, the heads have a passage hole cut into the front portion of the head for the coolant to flow up and into the intake and back out the water pump. The gasket you show, with having the one hole blocked may be causing your issue. Do you have a picture of the gasket before the head went on from the other side? Did you install them both the same way? Although, maybe not, I guess the locator pins wouldn't allow you to put them on wrong.

I would start by double checking the part numbers to make sure they are accurate. Then borrow a coolant pressure tester and pressurize the system and watch to see if pressure drops. Next, I would check the spark plugs on that side of the engine and look for spots or differences in the plugs as water in a cylinder will show up on the plugs.